There's
a chain of shoe-shops in Europe called Foot Locker, which were once
(hilariously) called Athlete's Foot. We shrieked every time we saw
their outlet in Calais. Eventually someone must have told their board
of directors so they renamed it. It's a superb example of how
dangerous it is to use a foreign language to market your brand. We
have seen a couple more examples in Salzburg: ultra-smart boutiques
selling very glossy stuff. One says 'You know it's impossible' on the
window. The other is actually called Second Hand. Er, I hope not, at
those prices.
At
the art galleries yesterday I found I was just not able to take
everything in. I had to stride through various suites of rooms, even
though I wanted to stop and read and study the artefacts... I was
aware of consciousness overload. There is just too much. I had to
focus on just a very few things, and those were identified very
quickly and almost randomly, a gut reaction. I was weighing up the
price of entry (so much to see!) against my ability to appreciate it
all. The same thing is happening with my holiday reading.
My
study book on this trip is a very weighty volume called After the
Ice, by Stephen Methin, published in 2003. I find I can't read it for
more than a short stretch, partly because it's so heavy, and partly
because there's so much to think about as you go through it. It is
really carving into my deep and wide lack of understanding of how
modern humans came to live the way we do. … It starts about 20,000
BC and moves forward to the present day.... I was gobsmacked to
learn that the origins of farming were not, as I believed in the
Fertile Crescent as bounded by the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, but
in what the author calls West Asia, and I would call the Eastern
Mediterranean – modern Israel, Jordan, Negev, Syria. The ancient
tells and mounds, the story of Jericho (who knew?), the villages
buried under the sea, the differences between wild and domesticated
cereals (and later goats and dogs), the way archaeologists have found
their evidence and made their deductions, it is rivetting stuff.
One message comes out so clearly – the planet's see-saw into and
out of hot and cold periods must make us look at the current global
warming scenario in a savvy light. It's also fascinating that the
rampaging excavations by 19th century researchers – the
grand old men of archaeology who dug so enthusiastically into the
ground – did so much damage and was in some ways no better than the
looters who often followed them. They did not have access to the
radiocarbon dating, the pollen analysis and microscopy that we have
now.. and we have to wonder what techniques will come along in
future. The main message is that those 'stone age savages' were as
ingenious, devious, violent, lyrical and organised as we are
ourselves. I doubt we could do as well as they did, given their
resources and how dependent we have become on (say) electricty,
plastic, transport, money, etc. You can't go back.
Today
we are going up to the mountains to see the snow. Train, bus,
gondola. I hope we have warm enough clothing, but the sun is shining.
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